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There are several ways to get to the famous vineyards of the Médoc: you can go by car, bicycle or even on horseback. Or you can be chased by Homer Simpson, The Village People and an army of clowns.
Celebrating its 25th year, the Médoc Marathon takes place each September in the heart of the legendary Bordeaux region. This is a marathon not about speed, but rather food, festivities and fine wines. Its route reads more like a wine list than a race course, dotted with locations like Château Lafite Rothschild, Lynch-Bages, Pichon-Longueville and Beychevelles.
Despite the emphasis on fun, gastronomy and viniculture, “the Médoc” is a true marathon. In fact, it’s the world’s longest (26 miles and 385 yards) and one of the most prestigious—Runner’s World magazine ranked it second after the New York Marathon. The event appeals to those as interested in stimulating their palate as well as their hamstrings. More than 30 chateaux open their doors to the sweating masses, offering everything from foie gras to artisan cheeses. Add costumed runners, 54 music and entertainment groups, and an oyster bar, and the Médoc surely ranks number one as the most fun and outrageous race of its kind.
But let’s not forget the wine. With 29 wine-tasting stations along the route, it is estimated that one barrique is emptied at each chateau over the course of the race. No fear; plenty of water and fruit are also on hand for the more serious runners, although such competitors are rare—the Médoc’s registration form explicitly discourages entries from individuals obsessed with speed records and trophies.
Health, sport and joie de vivre
It all started in 1984 when six marathoner friends (four of them doctors) decided to create a sporting event that focused on enjoyment and celebration, and explored other meanings of the word performance. The event clearly has appeal. From almost 500 runners in its first year, the Médoc Marathon now draws more than 8,000.
There is a serious side to this sporting event. From the beginning, the Médoc has participated in studies to advance knowledge about cardiology, blood pressure, podiatry and other medical subjects. The day before the race, a sports medicine conference brings together healthcare professionals and provides workshops for runners.
The marathon also features an excellent medical assistance program that includes 16 massage and foot-care stations, 10 medical teams posted along the course, and 10 specially equipped surgery tents. Physicians, physiotherapists and pediatrists, and more than 200 volunteers from the Red Cross and the French civil protection unit look after runners’ well-being and comfort.
Bring on the carbs
Carbohydrates are particularly important the night before the race to provide energy and add a few needed pounds; after all, race winners receive their body weight in wine.
Organizers oblige with great pasta spreads Friday evening in the town of Pauillac, and the infamous thousand-pasta dinner on the grounds of Château Pichon-Longueville. At the Château, registrants kick off the celebrations with live music, fireworks and an impressive selection of wines, including a 2007 Château Tour Pibran, a 2000 Cru Bourgeois Château Pibran and a 1998 Grand Cru Classé, Château Pichon-Longueville.
After an incredible night of revelry, it’s a wonder anyone makes it to the start of the race. But early Saturday morning, runners in festive gear start gathering near the quays of Pauillac on the banks of La Gironde.
Race day
This year’s fancy-dress theme is the circus, and more red noses than usual are expected. Some participants augment their costumes by pulling circus tents and cages with life-size stuffed tigers. But at the Médoc costumes are never limited to the theme, and the starting area is soon populated with grooms and their brides, pirates, cats, bumblebees and even Elvis, who adds a touch of royalty.
As more and more people cram into the main street, a group of seven drummers marches through the crowd and eventually is suspended by a crane above the runners. A trapeze artist joins in and then, as anticipation builds, the drums suddenly fall silent and the start-line banner is cut. They’re off!
Those who are here to watch now fade into nearby cafés, stroll the many shops and food stands set up along the quays, or enjoy carousel rides with their children.
A secret no more
The Médoc Marathon was once a well-kept secret, but in recent years it has begun to attract runners from around the world. This year’s participants came from as far as Australia, New Zealand and Japan. Nearly 300 were from Canada and the US.
On course
As runners approach the first kilometer mark, the more sensible cruise past the tables laden with wine, presumably visualizing only the finish line—and judging that it’s still a bit early for a drink. For many more, however, it’s all about the journey, and these roadside tastings are an essential part of the race.
The tasting stop in the village of Bages also happens to be the marathon’s halfway point. An oompah band and an enthusiastic crowd cheer on the runners, some dressed as wine bottles, beer kegs and Roman centurions. Even Indiana Jones stops to sample the wine and stretch his legs.
With drinking as the main attraction, organizers could have provided more loos on the course. But most participants seem undeterred by the lack of facilities and simply duck between rows of vines to answer the call of nature.
As the day wears on, racers are encouraged by increasingly enthusiastic chants of “Allez! Allez!” from the more than 55,000 spectators who line the route to cheer on the many who sprint, jog and hobble their way through the picturesque vineyards.
But this gastronomical adventure isn’t over yet. At kilometer 38, runners feast on oysters and white wine. Five kilometers later it’s back to red with grilled beef, followed soon after by the cheese course and an ice cream dessert.
It’s a measure of how unusual this race is that competitors can have their make-up retouched in the final stretch to ensure the perfect photo at the finish line. Good thing, too, as the finish is an emotional scene where competitors in all manner of costume are greeted by families and friends, cameras snapping. Jubilant and exhausted, runners embrace and congratulate one another for a race well run. Even the serious runners must be amazed at the sight. They appreciate better than most that it’s one thing to complete a marathon, and quite another to do it in full costume while tasting wine and sampling fine foods along the way.
Runners’ rewards
Many competitors line up for a welcome post-race massage, but there is no shortage of people streaming to the beer tent with their prizes. Each runner who completes the race in under 6.5-hours goes home with a medal, a bottle of wine (Château Lilian Ladouys, 1996) and a decanter. For some, a hangover is inescapable.
The greatest rewards for many must be the event’s carnival-like atmosphere and the warm welcome from the Médocains. The Médoc Marathon gives a whole new meaning to the popular French toast: “Santé”!
Saturday night fever and Sunday stroll
It may be hard to believe but Médoc celebrations continue Saturday evening with more wine tasting and a five course dinner at the “Soirée des Châteaux de Saint-Estèphe.” There’s also dancing and more fireworks along the quays of Pauillac.
The Recovery Walk on Sunday let’s you relive your experience at a more leisurely pace with family and friends; the event is open to 4,000 walkers, runners and volunteers. You can also shift gears with a mountain-bike excursion through the vineyards of Saint-Estèphe. A traditional country-style lunch is served under the big top at Pichon-Longueville—wine included of course.
What you should know
- The 26th Médoc Marathon will take place on Saturday September 11, 2010; visit www.marathondumedoc.com for more information.
- Participation fee is €65 for EU citizens, €80 for runners from other countries.
- Register early! Online registration usually begins in February or March, and is limited to runners born in 1990 or earlier.
- Only 20% of the places are reserved for foreign runners.
- Application forms must include a medical certificate.
- Book accommodations early.
- Costumes are optional but 90% of the runners dress up
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