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My hotel near Place d’Armes, Luxembourg City’s main square, is surrounded by several blocks of pedestrian-only streets that bring Rodeo Drive to mind. Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana—the only things missing are the palm trees. Not surprising. Luxembourg City is an independent financial center. Affluence is immediately evident. But so is a deeply cultured sophistication. In fact, I was struck by the seamless blend of traditional and modern. This is a fortress town with more than a thousand years of history, and yet heritage and contemporary architecture have been integrated with an obvious appreciation for the value of both.
But my mission is to leave the city behind, head for the Moselle Valley and taste some crisp, refreshing Luxembourgish white wines and, perhaps, a few interesting reds.
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Ranked the sixth-smallest country in the world and yet one of the best in which to live, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg covers less than 1,000 square miles, borders Belgium, France and Germany, and is home to less than half-a-million citizens.
More for less
Ranked the sixth-smallest country in the world and yet one of the best in which to live, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg covers less than 1,000 square miles, borders Belgium, France and Germany, and is home to less than half-a-million citizens.
The Moselle Valley
From the Luxembourg airport, I was advised to drive my rental car east and follow the signs to the Moselle. Visualizing a busy four-lane highway, I was pleasantly surprised to find a picturesque country road. The drive was relatively straightforward. Fortunately the many round points along the route made things a little easier when I missed the odd turnoff. Thirty minutes later, I arrived in the village of Remich.
I soon discovered that it is possible to travel almost the entire length of the Moselle Valley without leaving the Route Nationale. Along the way are a number of small villages that owe much of their charm to more than 2000 years of vine cultivation.
I start my trek in the village of Schengen, where a network of marked footpaths enables visitors to discover the region on foot, by bike or even on horseback. In the summer, the Moselle River sees an increase in traffic. Pleasure boats join the barges that travel up and down this important waterway.
Eighteen grape and wine festivals, complete with parades, are celebrated primarily in the spring and fall. In September, the wine festival in the village of Schwebsange is a must-see event, as wine flows from the charming Enfants-aux-Raisins fountain in front of the church.
In addition to its magnificent vineyard landscapes and mild temperatures, the Moselle Valley is, more than any other region in the country, a haven for lovers of food and wine and those curious and eager for adventure.
Before I start my visit to the wineries, I drive to a high point in the village of Wellenstein and find a cozy little picnic table nestled among the trees. I smile to an elderly couple who obviously had a similar idea, and enjoy a lovely picnic admiring the vineyards basking in the mid-day sun.
Make your own excitement
I was curious to visit Luxembourg, which—like my native Canada—has long been saddled with the 3B moniker (beautiful but boring). If it’s true that the safest countries are the least exciting, Canada and Luxembourg could be said to rank high. But as someone who has traveled much of the world—and never been eager to explore countries where guns appear to be fashion accessories—I think it’s unfair to judge Luxembourg without first-hand experience.
Luxembourg City, the capital, rivals many European cities in its cultural vibrancy. Fans of modern art are flocking to the new Museum of Modern Art (MUDAM), designed by Sino-American architect I.M. Pei. The new Philarmonie concert hall is also worth a visit for jazz, world-music and classical concerts.
The fortress ramparts are now a designated UNESCO World Heritage site; one of the most popular attractions is the Casemates—an intricate network of underground passageways that dates back to the city’s earliest times.
Outside the city, urban chic gives way to pastoral splendor in the north and east. A number of spectacular castles dot the hilly Ardennes region, where forested hills and fast-flowing rivers split Belgium and Luxembourg and offer plenty of marked trails for walking, cycling, mountain biking and canoeing.
Although a nation this small cannot be all things to all people, Luxembourg makes a valiant attempt.
Luxembourg wines
The area’s independent winegrowers occupy 52 estates along the Moselle River, plus Domaines de Vinsmoselle, which combines six cooperatives. The nine main grape varieties include Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Auxerrois, Rivaner, Elbling and Chardonnay. The region also makes specialty wines such as icewine, late harvest and straw wine. But Luxembourg is probably best known for its crémant sparkling wine.
The citizens of Luxembourg happily consume the majority of its wine production. Exports of wines and crémants reach only a few countries—primarily Belgium, with Germany and France a distant second and third.
Changes since the early 20th century include the introduction of new grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, now the area’s most important red varietal. The Marque Nationale (National Seal of Approval) came into effect in 1935 to ensure quality and originality of wines produced on Luxembourg soils. Only wines of Luxembourg origin that have not been blended with foreign wine and which comply with European Union requirements can lay claim to this designation. In 1959, the Marque nationale introduced wine classifications with the distinctions of Marque nationale — Appellation controlée, vin classé, premier cru and grand premier cru.
The winemakers
During my two-day visit to the Moselle Valley, I had the pleasure of meeting some passionate and dedicated winemakers. Each has a unique style and signature, and all are dedicated to tradition, quality and excellence.
Domaine A. Gloden & Fils
Based in Wellenstein, tucked behind the giant Vinsmoselle cooperative, the Gloden family has grown vines in the Moselle Valley since 1751. My host for the afternoon was Claude Gloden, a tenth-generation family member who started his career with Robert Mondavi in Germany. Claude explained that the Glodens grow nine different varietals in three countries—Germany, France and Luxembourg—for both historical and competitive reasons. Because Luxembourg winemakers cannot compete on volume, they choose to compete on diversity.
Claude’s passion is Pinot Noir. His family was among the first to cultivate this varietal, and he appreciates the challenges it offers as “a precocious, early ripening grape that commands constant care.”
In 2003, Gloden & Fils released their first Rosé de Noirs, a Pinot Noir rosé sparkling wine. This wine has a lovely soft pink colour. Strawberry and earthy fruit dominate the aromas. There were also lots of fruit on the palette with an off-dry sweetness, good citrus acidity and a touch of tannins.
I also tasted a Crémant de Luxembourg Brut, made from 100% Riesling. Its aromas were strongly herbal with hints of tarragon and thyme. Fruit and citrus were ever so present on the palette, balanced with crisp acidity.
A. Gloden & Fils are thoughtful winemakers, practicing techniques such as late harvesting, crop limiting and aging in neutral casks that enhance the fruit intensity and varietal character of their wines. The estate has won many international awards for their Crémant A. Gloden & Fils Brut. Gloden’s Pinot Gris Wellenstein Foulschette, the Riesling Schengen Markusberg 2003 and the Riesling Sélection 2004 were listed in The Hachette Guide for Wines, and the Riesling Schengen Markusberg 1999 won a gold medal at the Concours mondial de Bruxelles.
Domaine Viticole Laurent & Rita Kox
In the Moselle Valley, Laurent Kox is considered a revolutionary winemaker. In 1991, he was the first independent winemaker in Luxembourg to produce a crémant. In 2004, his estate, located in the village of Remich, was among the first to cultivate the Saint-Laurent grape (also known as Pinot Saint-Laurent). This red varietal had disappeared for more than a century in Luxembourg.
The Saint-Laurent is deep red in colour, full-bodied, fruit-forward and complex. Cherries, strawberries and raspberries characterize its aroma. Although a close relative of the Pinot Noir, the Saint-Laurent distinguishes itself with intense colour, robust mouthfeel and strong tannins. This grape ripens 10 days earlier than Pinot Noir and is highly susceptible to spring frost; however, the Saint-Laurent’s challenges are worthwhile, giving the region a second native red varietal.
I was also offered a tasting of straw wine directly from the barrel. It did have many qualities of a Canadian icewine: rich golden colour, honey-like aromas, tropical flavours, but with a lighter, fresher taste. You could easily enjoy this wine on its own—no dessert required.
Viticultural techniques are top of mind for Laurent Kox. In deference to his mother, who was a strong proponent of the environment, Laurent has fought the weeds in his vineyard by mechanical rather than chemical means for the last 20 years. Two parcels of land are currently used as testing grounds for more ecological methods and treatments.
Last year, the Kox family also expanded their tasting room to offer traditional, rustic cuisine with dishes such as pâté de viande and coq au vin that are well matched with Domaine Kox wines.
A conscience for the past and an open mind for the future are the characteristics that truly define Domaine Viticole Laurent & Rita Kox. Their wines have received numerous awards and honors at competitions including the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, and the Concours des Crémants de France et de Luxembourg. Most recently the Crémant-de-Luxembourg Cuvée Prestige received a distinguished mention in The Hachette Guide to Wines 2009.
Les Domaines de Vinsmoselle
Created in 1966, Les Domaines de Vinsmoselle brings together six cooperatives and a total of 450 winegrowers from the villages of Greiveldange, Grevenmacher, Remerschen, Stadbredimus, Wellenstein and Wormeldange, the new centre of crémant.
Accounting for more than 800 hectares of vineyards and approximately two-thirds of the nation’s wine production, Les Domaines de Vinsmoselle is by far the most important wine and crémant producer in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, and the recognized ambassador of the whole Luxembourg Moselle region.
Although the winemaker’s head office is located in the Château of Stadtbredimus, a mansion formerly occupied by Luxembourg’s national poet, Edmond de la Fontaine, I visited their cooperative in Wellenstein. There I had the pleasure of tasting one of Vinsmoselle’s Crémants Poll-Fabaire—wines for which the estate is probably best known. This brand is produced in accordance with strict quality criteria, including delicate picking, gentle pressing and a minimum nine-month fermentation in the bottle. I tasted the Poll-Fabaire Cuvée Cult. Its aromas were bready and buttery with Pinot notes, tropical fruits and a toasty richness. The palette was full and creamy with good acidity.
In each of the past 22 years, Les Domaines de Vinsmoselle has commissioned artists to develop limited box sets called the Art & Vin series. Beautifully packaged and containing the best Cru and Grand Premier Cru, the sets are highly sought after by collectors. The 2009 design, illustrated by artist Arthur Unger, is a contemporary interpretation of traditional Chinese wisdom.
Les Domaines de Vinsmoselle has also played an innovative role in the revival of Luxembourg’s winemaking tradition. This estate has become an important training ground where young wine growers learn the most modern techniques. They unite at Vinsmoselle to learn the tricks of the trade and to help influence and contribute to the quality of the wines. Hand in hand with the estate’s wine growers, oenologists and cellar masters, these young wine growers have helped develop and reposition Vinsmoselle vineyards.
Domaine Viticole Cep D’or
The Vesque family, owner of the estate, has been a vinicultural force in Luxembourg since 1762, when they immigrated from what was then the Republic of Alsace-Lorraine. In contrast, the Cep d’Or winery is a strikingly modernist building designed by renowned Luxembourg architect Valentini.
I was greeted warmly by Johnny Vesque, who gave me a tour of the facilities, including a wine shop, conference and reception hall, and art gallery. We began our conversation in the tasting room, which hosts more than 10,000 visitors each summer.
I learned that, unlike locations like California and Niagara, people don’t come to Luxembourg to buy land with a dream to start a vineyard. Here, winemaking is strictly a product of family heritage and tradition. For these old agricultural families, who have an emotional connection and utmost respect for the land, wine is one of the purest expressions of the terroir.
Although rooted in deep tradition, the Vesque family understands that Luxembourg winemakers must remain in touch with their consumers. In 1995, Johnny Vesque began exchanging old- and new-world knowledge and vinicultural techniques with New Zealand winemakers.
Despite the advances, Cep D’or still cultivates the noble grapes, including Auxerrois, Pinots Blanc, Noir and Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and Gerwürztraminer. The winery also makes three different crémants: Traditional Brut, Riesling and their Signature Crémant, which blends the three Pinots. Annual production varies between 90,000 and 120,000 bottles.
Cep d’Or is especially known for its Rosé of Luxembourg and the Auxerrois Sur Lie—a light, fresh summer wine that can cellar for several years. I particularly enjoyed the barrel-aged Pinot Blanc for its floral aroma and almond/citrus flavours. I could see this wine beautifully accompanying a filet of sole almondine.
In 2008, the Crémant Brut Signature 2006 and the Crémant Brut 2006 won gold and silver medals respectively at the Concours Mundus-Vini in Germany. Since 1999, Cep d’Or Crus and Crémants have been selected every year for The Hachette Guide to Wines and Vinalies International: 1000 Wines of the World.
“Luxembourgers buy wine that is well-made,” responded Johnny Vesque when asked if medals, competitions and ratings had any impact on the sale of wines. “Medals don’t influence choice, but quality does.”
Small country, big opportunity
For the history buff, outdoor enthusiast and wine lover, the Moselle Valley offers a feast for the palate and the eyes. Luxembourgish wines deliver excellent quality and value. A finely crafted bottle of Riesling can be purchased for four to five Euros. Many white varietals demonstrate pristine character, clarity of fruit, good acidity, freshness and minerality. The reds are coming into their own, with earthy Pinot Noirs and the full-bodied, newly resurrected Saint-Laurent. Passion, pride and commitment are evident in every bottle.
The only drawback is availability—these wines can be enjoyed only in Luxembourg. What a pity!
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Thank you for the wonderful article on Luxembourg. Much appreciated.
Brigitte Goergen
Director
Luxembourg Nat. Tourist Office, NY
Very nice article! Are Luxembourg wines now available in Canada? Here in the U.S., they are available in a few locations.